Hall-of-Famer Taiwanese Gourmet Still Killing It in Elmhurst
(Scott Lynch / Hell Gate)

Hall-of-Famer Taiwanese Gourmet Still Killing It in Elmhurst

The pioneering restaurant remains a must-visit destination if you like to eat a ton of good food.

As was likely true for everyone who cares about and/or covers New York City restaurants, my group chat lit up when the New York Times dropped its third annual 100 Best Restaurants list a couple of weeks ago, the first in the newspaper's post-Pete Wells era

Compiled mostly by interim critics Priya Krishna and Melissa Clark, the new list, while perhaps lacking a cohesive point of view, did feature many pleasant surprises, including a heartening number of Hell Gate $20 Dinner favorites like Carnitas Ramirez, Salty Lunch Lady, Laghman Express, Kisa, S&P Lunch, Hamburger America, Levant, Hainan Chicken House, Lucia Pizza, and Superiority Burger.

There were also a few head-scratchers, of course, such as the inclusion once again of Barney Greengrass. I mean, it's an UWS icon for sure, and I love it as an appetizing counter, but those scrambled eggs everyone gets are really not good. Mostly, though, the new additions and rankings felt refreshing, and a cause for celebration. Semma is number one! Kopitiam, Cocina Consuelo, White Bear, and Golden Diner get the accolades they deserve! 

And with the list's online interactive tally tool it was easy to compete with your friends. My body count was 52 "been-to-alreadys" and 48 "want-to-tries," the latter category mostly filled with places that are either inaccessible by subway or just ridiculously expensive. If you're paying, though, let me know, I'd be happy to hang. 


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