Christopher Street is only seven blocks long (or a couple more, if you want to include the eponymous pier jutting out over the Hudson). But its importance in the city's history, and in the world's collective understanding of what New York "is," far outstrips its size.
Unlike other iconic NYC destinations, the West Village strip hasn't been totally ceded to the tourists, continuing to resist mall-ification with a recent surge of new openings that even the most jaded New Yorkers would find it hard to resist, like the terrific pie-crust-cookie shop Janie's, the woman-owned brewery Talea, and the excellent French bistro Libertine.
Now two new counter service spots between Bleecker and Bedford are bringing still more good vibes and great food to the block: a second location of L'Industrie, one of the city's absolute best slice shops; and plucky newcomer Sushi Counter, which specializes in Australian-style sushi rolls. Both are very welcome additions to your eating options, for lunch and dinner, in this part of town.
L'Industrie (Part II)
The fact that Massimo Laveglia and Nick Baglivo opened their new L'Industrie in the West Village is total random amazing luck for the locals. "You don't find the space," Baglivo told Hell Gate, "The space finds you. You get something that works because it works. That's how it goes."
Zen pronouncements aside, the new L'Industrie has seating for about 20 people inside at tables and counter stools, a full menu of slices, pies, and desserts, and, so far, a line running out the door during most of the day and night. And for good reason! The pizza here is outstanding, a combination of Italian ingredients, know-how—Laveglia is from Pistoia, in Tuscany—and love, done up as classic NYC folds.
On opening day, my party made quick work of four slices: a baseline margherita, a pepperoni, a tartufo (mozzarella, mushrooms, ricotta, and just the exact right amount of truffle oil), and the shop's most extravagant offering, the L'Industrie, which features both burrata and prosciutto on top. These are all fucking awesome slices of pizza.
A lot is made of Laveglia's long fermentation process for making the dough, and the crust here is, in fact, pretty extraordinary: It's thin but sturdy, chewy but light, funky and tangy and charred in all the right places. You don't have to know the details to appreciate how delicious it is. Besides, Baglivo said that they change up the recipe, and the processes, all the time, constantly tinkering to ensure that, as he put it, "we do what we want to do, and do it well."
Stop by L'Industrie on a Wednesday if you can, the only day (for now!) that sandwiches are available, and get whatever weekly special they're slinging. The chicken caesar sandwich we split totally ruled, just an absolute juicy ass monster of a meal, but other musts in this department include the meatball parm, and the chicken vodka, and the grilled mortadella.
There are slices of cake and bomboloni for dessert, on display in a little cabinet by the register, plus specials like homemade tiramisu and, best of all, a rotating selection of soft serve gelato. We got the pineapple and concord grape combo swirl, drizzled with olive oil, which had us swooning. There's beer and wine, too, if that's your thing.
Basically, L'Industrie West Village is divine, though right now, given the line situation, it's probably best not to show up at anything resembling prime time with a plan of "just grabbing a slice." Maybe congestion will ease when Frank Tuttolomondo opens his big new location of the equally stellar Mama's Too a half a block away on Bleecker Street, and NYC pizza fiends can spread out a bit.
Sushi Counter
Across the street and about five doors west is Melbourne native Alex Marks's Sushi Counter, a tiny shop specializing in Australian hand rolls, which is a thing I didn't know existed until a few weeks ago.
What makes these Aussie? Some of it is just format. These aren't your standard conical hand rolls; they're more like cut rolls that haven't been cut. They're fat, architecturally sound, very portable, and about four bites long. This style is not exclusive to Australia, to be sure, but, as confirmed by my younger daughter currently living in Sydney, it is ubiquitous down (under) there.
Some of the fillings, too, are not things you usually associate with sushi, but are apparently hugely popular in Australia. There's a teriyaki chicken roll, for example, and a cooked tuna one, both of which are flagged by Marks as "very Australian." More standard flavors include spicy tuna and salmon avo, and there are two vegan offerings, a miso eggplant and an avo cucumber.
All four rolls I had were very enjoyable. The nori snaps, the rice is firm and vinegary, the fillings well-balanced, and the whole thing is served just-made fresh at room temperature. The price is pleasant too: $5 each or three for $12.
Marks hands you your rolls in a bag, along with a packet of pickled ginger, a packet of wasabi, and an undeniably charming, if environmentally unsound, squeezable plastic fish filled with enough drops of soy sauce for at least two rolls. There are a couple of tables on the sidewalk out front, and a window seat inside, but otherwise you'll have to find a stoop to squat on while you eat.
Sushi Counter is Marks's first restaurant—the chef here, Alex Matos, has more experience, having spent many years in places like Shinn East and Sushi Seki—and, as she told Hell Gate: "It's been an adventure."
"I've been in NYC for just over two years, and was a lawyer until about six months ago when I decided that wasn't my passion in life," Marks said. "I wanted to do something different. We have places like Sushi Counter on most corners in Melbourne and Sydney, and I've really missed that, so I decided to open one."
And despite some briefly viral online accusations of cultural appropriation led by some dude in North Carolina, the reaction among New Yorkers has been incredibly welcoming, Marks said. In fact, she and chef Matos sell out at both lunch and dinner every day, so get here early.
"Lots of Aussies come in here wide-eyed with excitement," she said. "But it's mostly been Americans, which has been lovely."
The West Village L'Industrie is located at 104 Christopher Street, between Bleecker and Bedford Streets, and is currently open daily from 12:00 noon to 10:00 p.m. (212-256-0648)
Sushi Counter is located at 119 Christopher Street, between Bleecker and Bedford, and is currently open on Wednesday through Sunday at 12:00 noon for lunch (until sell out), and at 5:00 for dinner (until sell out).
