Stolovaya Serves Up Soviet-Era Nostalgia With Superb Russian Favorites
Chicken Kiev, $18.95. (Scott Lynch / Hell Gate)

Stolovaya Serves Up Soviet-Era Nostalgia With Superb Russian Favorites

This Sheepshead Bay banger has been packing in the locals since 2000.

There's a lot going on at this venerable gathering spot in Sheepshead Bay, and all of it is good. The exterior signage—colorful, Cyrillic, almost cartoony—leaps off the building and promises "authentic Soviet cuisine." The long, multileveled dining room is festooned with vintage-vibing CCCP imagery, from portraits of Lenin and Marx to hammer-and-sickles aplenty to corny "sexy" propaganda posters over by the bathroom.       

Along one wall, and even though Stolovaya means "cafeteria" in Russia, the space is decked out to look like you're sitting inside a train car. TVs play in every corner, the small bar is littered with tchotchkes, the music is impressively loud and the scene impressively boisterous for the middle of the afternoon on a Tuesday.  

Train-inspired decor on a bustling Tuesday. (Scott Lynch / Hell Gate)

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